Engine Rebuilding

When we rebuild an engine, we first assess the job and take pictures and inventory what is there or not there. Then we totally disassemble the engine and make notes and take more pictures along the way. After it is apart, we sort the parts out and meticulously clean everything that is not being replaced. After all the parts and block and cylinder head castings are clean, we lay the job out and make a parts list and take measurements for the machine work to be done.
The engine block is checked for cracks, straightness and carefully measured. Typically, each block is decked on top and the piston bores are either bored out to the next size or resleeved. The crankshaft is typically ground down to the next size on the rod and main journals and it is balanced. We also convert the rear main from a rope seal to a modern lip seal.

We always recommend 9.0:1 compression pistons although some early engines came standard with lower compression. We also convert the new piston rings to gapless to cut down on oil consumption and increase compression. Connecting rods are checked over and the big ends are remachined and the small ends are rebushed and fitted to new piston wrist pins. The oiling hole in the connecting rod is tapped and plugged also. The oil passages in the crank are cleaned out and new sludge trap plugs are installed in the crank. We always install new pistons, bearings, timing chains, tensioner, and guides. Before assembly, we meticulously measure tolerances and oil clearances and document those on a build sheet.
We use modern, updated gaskets and sealers throughout so that the engine seals better than it did originally. Both the inside and outside of the block are painted and restored as they were originally. All fasteners. inside of the engine and out, are blackened or replated as original. We try to use the original British fasteners as much as possible to maintain originality.
Always send your flywheel and front dampner. We resurface the flywheel, repair damaged teeth for starter engagement, balance it and check for run out so that the engine will run smooth. We can either reuse your dampner or replace it with new but it has to be installed on the engine as we rebuild it so that we can exactly time the cams with TDC on the lower end and make the correct markings/adjustments on the indicating marker.

On the top end we take the cylinder head(s) apart and assess. We hot tank and pressure wash the casting and check for corrosion and cracks. About half the time we find some and need to repair the casting. We do all welding in house and then our machine shop does a pressure test to check for leakage in the casting. Occasionally the casting is too far gone to be repaired and needs to be replaced. We have a large inventory and can usually find a period correct core to replace it.
We always cut at minimum the top and bottom sides of the head and recut the cam journal bores. This makes the head straight and true again. Oftentimes we can reuse the original cams but occasionally they do need to be recut or replaced. We can also fit any upgraded cams for added performance. We almost always install new valve guides, especially if they are the original cast iron guides as those are usually cracked at this point. We install new guides to accommodate valve stem seals on the intake side. We also always replace the bearings, valves and springs. The machine shop recuts the seats to 3-angles and we lap the valves in to insure a good seal. We flatten and polish the front and repaint the head as original.
Before assembly of the head we test fit the cams with the bearings in
place to insure the cams turn easily. The head is built and valve lash is
adjusted exactly for each side to match the various cam profiles and lobe
ramps.
We can modify both the lower end and cylinder head for performance options. Please call and talk to us to discuss your performance needs and the options available to achieve them.
Please check out our Shipping page for more information about crating and sending your engine or cylinder head to us.
Engine
| Engine | Rebuild Price Range* | Core Charge |
| 2.4, 2.8, 3.4, 3.8, & 4.2 Liter Engines | 16,000.00 to 25,000.00 | Inquire |
| 5.3 & 6.0 Liter V-12 Engines | 17,000.00 to 25,000.00 | Inquire |
Full Dress Engine
This is a fully reconditioned engine and cylinder head with all the accessories attached like porcelain manifolds and intake with carburetors, distributor, oil filter, waer pump and other parts necessary to make it run. All parts are reconditioned or new. Inquire for prices (usually about double the engine prices above.)
Cylinder Head Only
| Application | Rebuild Price Range* | Core Charge |
| 2.4, 2.8, 3.4, 3.8 and 4.2 Liter | 3,500.00 to 6,000.00 | Inquire |
| V-12, each | 2,000.00 to 3,000.00 | Inquire |
Test Run
After we rebuild your engine, we can hook it up to our test stand and fire it up. We will run it enough to do the initial break-in procedure and check for and correct any leaks. Then we drain all of the fluids, unhook it form the test stand and prep it for shipping. This normally takes 1.5 to 2 days and costs about $1,500 to $2,500. (Our warranty applies with or without test running the engine in our shop.)
*How Our Pricing Works
We charge time and materials. This means that we charge for the time we spend rebuilding your item and the parts and materials that are required. This means that we can do things properly and not cut corners to meet a flat rate charge. These cars are 40-80 years old and each car and each component has its own unique problems and challenges so there is no way to come up with a flat price that will be fair to everyone. While we have made every effort to correctly state the average ranges for the projects we have worked on, your project may cost more or less depending on the condition of your parts, extra time or parts required beyond normal wear and tear, extra machine work required or not required, the cost of parts and various other factors. All prices in USD, plus shipping.
